Ecuador, The Royal Tour

Your flight will be met by a local guide who will be waiting for you at the airport. For your convenience, he will be holding a sign with your name on it. You will be driven to the Ilatoa Lodge, a countryside lodge about 35 minutes from the airport, where you can relax, wander the grounds, or take a nap if you need one.

DAY 2 (Monday): Travel to The Huaorani Ecolodge in The Rainforest

Your journey to the Amazon begins early in the morning after getting picked up at your hotel. Leaving the bustling metropolis of Quito, you will be treated to the beautiful scenery of the Ecuadorian countryside as you transition south from the Andes to the Amazon (locally known as el Oriente). The excursion winds along the impressive Avenue of Volcanoes—a strip of 14 active, semi-active and dormant volcanic mountains—passing traditional haciendas, indigenous villages and protected natural areas, giving you a taste of the local culture. You will continue through the cloudforest and stop in the idyllic town of Baños to stretch your legs and take in the views. After this break, you continue south and drop further in elevation until reaching the rainforest ecosystem.

Four or five hours after Baños, you will arrive to the town of Shell, named after the oil company. Around noon, you will depart in a small aircraft to the Huaorani community of Quehueri’ono (keh-weri-oh-noh), where after a 45-minute flight you will receive a warm greeting by your hosts. From here, you will start your expedition downstream in a shallow dugout canoe called a quilla (kee-yah). Your luggage will be taken ahead separately, so hold on to your camera, binoculars, sunscreen and hat. Rubber boots and rain ponchos will be distributed at this point.

Immediately, the sights, sounds and smells of the Amazon surround you. The entire paddle downstream will be filled with amazing wildlife viewing, and you’ll likely catch a glimpse and photo of the many riverside birds, including the Yellow-rumped Cacique, the Greater and Lesser Kiskadees, and any of the four Amazonian kingfishers. You won’t want to put your camera down as you traverse the mighty Shiripuno River (shire-puno) sandwiched between thick tangles of rainforest vegetation. Finally, you will arrive at Huaroni Ecolodge, your intimate and comfortable home for the next few days. You’ll have the chance to settle in, listen to an introductory briefing about the Huaroani culture and its relationship with the rainforest, and eat a satisfying dinner. After dinner, feel free to rest up for day two of your Amazonian adventure, or if you have an urge to start exploring, ask your guide to lead you on a night walk. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 3 (Tuesday): Hike, Swim, Learn to Hunt Huaorani Style

Today is hunting day! And you thought this was an environmentally friendly project? Well, it is! Huaorani are hunters and gatherers and their main sources of protein are mammals (yes, including monkeys), fish and birds. The goals of this project are to preserve the traditional practices of the Huaorani culture and to protect the tropical rainforest. After breakfast, a Huaorani guide will accompany you on a nature hike into the forest. The local guides are also experienced hunters and they will teach you the secrets of rainforest survival without killing any of the creatures that live there. You’ll learn how to set traps, make fire without matches, build a shelter in minutes, use a blowgun, practice the perfect swing of the machete and catch fish in small creeks. Your guide may also point out and let you taste edible insects, identify and explain the uses of medicinal plants, and show you which clay is used to made pottery. Afterwards, you’ll have time to change into your swimsuit and take a dip in the fresh river water, swimming beside the creatures of the Amazon. Do not worry, though, the animals won’t bite; humans are the only true threat in the jungle! Most likely, members of the Huaorani community will join you for the swim. The river plays a central role in their lives and they spend a lot of time swimming, relaxing, and playing in the water.

The afternoon will be spent with the community, when you’ll get to know the members personally. The relaxed, informal visit may lead you to share a bowl of chucula (a sweet drink made of ripe bananas) under the filtered light of the thatched houses, or admire the beautiful handmade artifacts, including woven hammocks and bags, blowguns, traps and necklaces. You’ll also have the chance to visit the Bi-cultural Ecology Education project and learn how to harvest manioc, also known as yucca or cassava. You return to the lodge by canoe at the end of the afternoon to relax and have dinner. Then, your naturalist guide will offer a half-hour discussion, or charla, on a subject of interest. Like the day before, if you’d like to extend your day and continue observing, ask your guide to take you on a short night hike. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 4 (Wednesday): Huaorani Community Visit & Rainforest River Canoe Ride

After breakfast, you set off canoeing down the Shiripuno River in traditional Huaorani style, or you can choose to kayak instead at an additional cost. Today the day starts extra early in order to catch a glimpse of the many different birds out at these hours. The tranquility of the morning will allow you to appreciate the true peace and calm of the rainforest, and is the perfect time to relax and engage in intimate conversations, reflect on the past few days of the journey, or to learn some Huaorani vocabulary. Next up is a stop at the Apaika community inside the Yame Reserve, a 55,000-hectare protected area managed by the Huaorani Association, the organization leading the region’s ecotourism initiatives. Here you will enjoy a quick snack and visit Apaika’s mini interpretation center, where you can learn more about nearby Yasuní National Park.

By now, you will have learned that your time with the Huaorani is most unscripted. With that in mind, to complete the afternoon you’ll be able to join the community in some of its daily activities and share in its history, myths and magic. Afterwards, the group continues a couple more hours downriver near the Huaorani village of Nenquepare. You will spend the night here, camping out along the Shiripuno River, sleeping with the sounds of the Amazon’s animals. The well-constructed and comfortable campsite is part of a community initiative, so you will really get to participate in and support community tourism at its finest. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 5 (Thursday): Waterfall Hike, Pipeline Tour & Return to Quito

Rising early, you will have the opportunity to hike the community trail to visit an impressive waterfall, one that has special importance for the Huaorani. Once there, you can take a dip in the energizing waters to recharge for the trip back to Quito. The fairly easy hike is three hours round trip.

Once back at the campsite, the group will bid farewell and start the return journey downstream in canoe. This will begin an introduction to how the oil industry has impacted the Huaorani lands. The group will head to the border between traditional Huaorani territory and that of the petroleum companies, though it all used to belong to the Huaorani. On this short tour, you will witness the crude reality of the planet’s collective thirst for oil as you ride alongside miles of pipelines, which go from the Huaorani community of Tihuino to Lago Agrio, the oil hub of el Oriente, to be pumped across the Andes to the port of Esmeraldas. This brief journey through oil territory illustrates the reality of the threat facing the rainforest and the Huaorani people. You will also realize why your visit to Huaorani Lodge is so important!

After a 2.5-hour ride down the river, you will reach the banks of the Río Napo and the town of Coca, where you will catch your flight to Quito. Upon arrival in Quito, you’ll be met by a local guide who will drive you to your hotel in the historic district of downtown Quito, a UNESCO World Heritage site. You will overnight in a suite at Patio Andaluz. (Breakfast)

DAY 6 (Friday): Otovalo Market & Andean Hacienda

In the morning, you will be picked up from your Quito hotel and driven on the famous PanAmerican Highway to the Otovalo Market, located in the lush hills of the Avenue of the Volcanoes. The Otovalo Market is the largest indigenous market in South America and popular for tourists and locals alike to buy handicrafts, livestock, and other wares. The local Otavaleños maintain their traditional dress and traditions, so it feels a world apart from Quito even though they are only 1.5 hours apart. After this visit, you’ll continue further into the lush, mountainous countryside with views of Cayambe volcano en route (if the sky is clear, of course).

Upon arrival at Hacienda Zuleta, you’ll be met by a host who will welcome you personally and assist you with check-in. Dating back to the late 16^th century, Hacienda Zuleta is a historic and extremely well-maintained estate that belongs to the Plaza Lasso family (Galo Plaza Lasso is a former president of Ecuador). The 14-room Hacienda maintains a colonial working farm, an organic creamery, a stable of Zuleteno riding horses, and organic garden. The 4,000-acre grounds have lovely walking and riding trails for you to explore the countryside. After getting settled in and enjoying lunch, you will embark on a horseback ride with a local guide. You’ll traverse the rural landscape and arrive at the Condor Rehabilitation Center, funded by Hacienda Zuleta. Hopefully, these magnificent birds will be seen both at the Center and flying overhead. The horses here are bred for riding and you’ll have a ball, no matter your skill level or expertise. You’ll return to the Hacienda for dinner and to sleep. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 7 (Saturday): Hacienda Tour, Embroidery Demonstration & Return to Quito

After breakfast, your guide will take you on a fascinating tour through the historic Hacienda and surrounding grounds. You’ll get to see the workings of their organic, traditional creamery where they process handmade, semi-aged Ecuadorian cheeses. You will also see the barn, organic farm, and other aspects of this working farm.

From here you’re on to a embroidery demonstration with a member of the Zuleta Women’s Cooperative. These highly skilled artisans sell their wares at the Hacienda and also demonstrate their craft for interested visitors. This area of Ecuador is widely known as the weaving center of the country and the artisans here are especially recognized as masters of their craft. You will have some time to relax this afternoon as well at the Hacienda.

You’ll then be driven back to Quito. En route, you’ll have stunning views of the Zuleta Valley and the Avenue of the Volcanoes. You will be dropped off at the Patio Andaluz where you can explore a bit of Quito nightlife or just rest up before your upcoming Galapagos adventure. (Breakfast, Lunch)

DAY 8 (Sunday): Fly to Galápagos, Visit Tortoises & Floreana Island

Early in the morning you board the flight to the Galápagos Islands. You land on Baltra Island where upon arrival you will pay the Galápagos National Park entrance fee. After claiming your luggage, you will be met by our expert local guide who will give you useful background information before your transfer to Santa Cruz where you head off to the first Galápagos excursion.

En route to Puerto Ayora, you’ll stop in the Santa Cruz Highlands at the Los Gemelos Creter (the twin craters). These two massive sinkholes formed by volcanic eruptions are now covered in dense Scalesia forest, a bizarre tree endemic to the Galápagos. Be on the lookout for Vermillion flycatchers and Darwin finches while exploring the short trails at Los Gemelos.

At midday, enjoy a tasty boxed lunch en route to the town of Puerto Ayora where a private speed boat will take you on a two-hour ride to the island of Floreana. Before boarding the speedboat, you will be fit for shorty wetsuits and rental snorkel gear. The peaceful island of Floreana is home to the Galápagos’ smallest population, only 150 people, and is also the least developed and most natural of the four inhabited islands. On Floreana you will be hiking, seeing very special Galápagos wildlife (giant tortoises, frigate birds, Darwin’s finches, sea lions, and petrels), and learning about the fascinating history of the local people.

After the hike you travel to Lava Lodge overlooking the Galápagos’ most beautiful and secluded bay. After checking in, enjoy a 30-minute walk to La Loberia (a sea lion breeding ground) where you are sure to see the first sea lions of the trip. From this beach, you can snorkel and swim in the warm bright water with sea turtles, sea lions, spectacular rays and lots of shimmering fishes. Stand-up paddleboards (SUP) will be available as well, allowing a clear view of the animals swimming below you and a bit of exercise. If you’ve never SUPed or snorkeled, your guide will teach you the basics of these very easy and fun activities.

In the late afternoon you return to the lodge for a nice warm shower and dinner in the village. After your great day, settle in for a restful night in Lava Lodge. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 9 (Monday): Floreana SUP, Hiking, Snorkeling

Pre-breakfast, we recommend a stand-up paddle or snorkel excursion alongside sea lions, green sea turtles, rays, and tropical fish. The water at this time is very calm typically and it’s a great time to spot wildlife. After breakfast you leave to explore the Floreana highlands on the open-air bus, a chiva. On the way, our naturalist guide will point out wildlife and give you an idea of the colorful history of some of Floreana’s first inhabitants, such as the Wittmers (whose descendants still live on the Island), the “Baroness” von Wagner Bosquet, and the pirates that once visited here. They will also tell you about the “Enigma of Floreana,” involving the mysterious deaths of several of the Island´s inhabitants ─ a riddle that has never been solved.

After driving into the highlands, you reach Asilo de la Paz (Peace Haven) where the hike begins. You walk up to this historic site, explore pirate caves, and stop to observe wildlife. Along the way, you can expect to see giant tortoises lumbering around in the vegetation or even on the trail. You leave Asilo de Paz walking down past local small-scale farms and pastures. Once back on the coast you will be able to watch the extraordinary behavior of the Magnificent frigate birds who “dance” as they wash their salty wings in a nearby freshwater pool. You might even get to see males puffing up the huge red pouches on their chests in an attempt to attract females. From La Primavera you continue by chiva down to Las Palmas, where the Island’s first permanent inhabitant, the eccentric Dr. Ritter, lived and is buried. From Las Palmas, you’ll continue toward the ocean to see spectacular views of the Floreana shoreline. Tonight, you’ll dine with a local family on Floreana who will most likely tell you all about life in this remote outpost and the history of their island home. You return for an overnight stay in Lava Lodge. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 10 (Tuesday): Mini-Galapagos & Baby Tortoises on Isabela Island

An early rising has you catching our speedboat headed for Isabela Island. The trip takes about 30 minutes for arrival in Isabela at around 8 a.m. Puerto Villamil, the only town on Isabela, is an idyllic beach town — a small town with sand streets, open air cafes, and palm-lined beaches. Isabela teems with Galapagos wildlife, making this an Eden worth spending three nights — so that’s the plan!

The Isabela adventure begins with a tour of Tintoreras, a group of small islands near Puerto Villamil that are like a mini-Galapagos — meaning you can see nearly all the archipelago’s iconic wildlife right here. The Tintoreras islet is named for the white-tipped reef sharks, known locally as Tintoreras, who hang out in these calm waters. Here, you observe white-tipped reef sharks at rest, plus sea lions, turtles, rays, penguins and, of course, pelicans and blue-footed boobies. You will have a chance to snorkel in the bay — don’t be surprised if some of the penguins or sea lions jump in to play with you in the water.

In the afternoon, you walk from the hotel to the local giant tortoise breeding center. While crossing the boardwalk over a mangrove swamp, you may see pink flamingos feeding in a lake. The breeding center is an important conservation tool and where the islands’ giant tortoise population is presently recovering. Expert guides will explain the process of breeding and then releasing into the wild these giant slow-moving creatures.

Back at the hotel, if you have the energy you can head to the beach just in front of the hotel. The water surrounding Isabela is vividly turquoise and the beaches are considered more scenic than most in the Islands. There are waves to play in, and there is always the chance to see sea lions, turtles, and sea birds. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 11 (Wednesday): Volcano Hiking on Isabela Island

Put on your hiking shoes! The whole day will be spent exploring the highlands of Isabela by hiking to the caldera of Volcan Sierra Negra, and then to the rim of Volcan Chico. This long and fascinating hike usually begins in morning fog and sprinkling rain. By the time we reach the rim of the second largest caldera in the world, Sierra Negra, the typical day is bright and sunny. Volcanic eruptions created all the islands in the Galápagos, and you will get to see this geologic process first-hand as you explore Isabela, one of the youngest and most volcanically active islands of the archipelago.

Later, as you head toward Volcan Chico, you may get the feeling you are walking on Mars. But while the landscape appears desolate, a closer look reveals small lizards scurrying amongst the rocks.

After Volcan Chico, under the shade of a lovely “jaboncillo” tree, you enjoy a picnic lunch with the chance to enjoy some spectacular views over the central and northern parts of Isabela Island. In the distance, you will be able to see Fernandina, Pinzon and Santa Cruz islands. The day is completed after hiking back down (nine miles in total) and relaxing on the beaches of Puerto Villamil. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 12 (Thursday): Isabela Island’s History and Wildlife
* Upgrade to Los Tuneles (details below)

From the white sandy beach in front of our hotel, you paddle a kayak around Villamil Bay. En route, you’ll be looking for turtles, rays, penguins, and blue-footed boobies — sea lions will probably paddle along with you as well. After observing the wildlife in Villamil Bay, you will paddle back to the beach in front of the hotel.

In the afternoon, you bike to the Wetlands Trail through numerous mangroves (all four types can be seen here) and marine iguana colonies while enjoying the network of trails, beaches and historic sites. The journey to the Wall of Tears is filled with small surprises. Along the way, you’ll stop at secluded beaches to observe land iguanas, wild tortoises, and various birds nesting in the mangrove trees. By taking bikes, you are able to stop frequently to explore and travel quietly enough so as not to startle the wildlife.

At the end of the trail is the Wall of Tears, built in the late 1940’s by World War II prisoners held at the U.S. base on the island. Your guide will explain the importance of the Wall of Tears, as it is a window into the lives of the island’s previous inhabitants.

On the return route, there is an opportunity to snorkel in a rarely visited spot just outside of town. From Puerto Villamil, you take a short walk to the edge of town and over a wooden walkway that runs through a mangrove forest up to an intertidal pond. In the calm turquoise bay, you have the chance to snorkel amongst sea turtles, penguins, sea lions, many tropical fish and rays. Concha de Perla is isolated from the ocean at low tide, making it an interesting and calm place for snorkeling and swimming. You may be snorkeling alongside some Isabela locals who also frequent this spot, but you’re unlikely to share it with too many tourists. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 13 (FridayY): Santa Cruz Tortoises, Biking & BBQ at The Beach

Today has you up for an early start to catch the public ferry for Santa Cruz Island. Upon arriving in Santa Cruz, you enjoy a hearty breakfast in town before heading up to the highlands to view giant land tortoises. You will visit a local farm (or finca) that is a tortoise reserve, to walk around and view these giant creatures. Here you can see the massive tortoises lumbering out of the forest or just munching on vegetation.

You are then driven to an off-the-beaten-path area of Santa Cruz Island, where upon reaching a high point on the road you switch to mountain bikes for the long downhill cruise on freshly paved roads to Garrapatero Beach. On the ride, you will pass small farms and have views of the ocean and distant islands.

Once at the beach at Garrapatero, you may encounter a few local families, but few, if any, tourists. You will paddle the bay in sit-on-top sea kayaks, enjoying your last day on the water in the Galapagos, while looking for sharks, rays, turtles, and sea birds. You will have a picnic lunch on the beach before heading back to Puerto Ayora and the next adventure.

Once back in town, you have the option to stay in town to shop for souvenirs or, if time allows, to walk the two-mile boardwalk to Tortuga Bay, one of the largest and most beautiful beaches in the Galapagos. At Tortuga Bay, you can walk the beach, swim in the beautiful water, or even snorkel a bit more.

Tonight you stay in Santa Cruz’ largest town, Puerto Ayora, where you will find a number of bars, shops, restaurants, and places to stroll along the water. While it’s the most populous town in the Galapagos, it’s still small and quaint, allowing for a mellow or raucous evening. (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)

DAY 14 (Saturday): Fly to Quito, Fly Home

Before saying farewell to Santa Cruz Island, you will visit the Charles Darwin Research station. After breakfast, your guide will take you on a tour of this important and fascinating research facility. Here, you observe the highly successful breeding programs for tortoises and iguanas, which have saved several species from extinction. You will learn about environmental stewardship in the Islands and critical issues still facing the Galapagos.

You then head to the Baltra airport. From there, you will bid adieu to the Galapagos and board the flight to mainland Ecuador (Quito or Guayaquil). From here, you’ll catch your flight back home. The hotel this night not included, but can be added upon request. (Breakfast)

DAY 12 (Thursday): Los Tuneles

Wildlife: Penguins, Blue-footed boobies, tropical fish, sea lions, sea turtles, and Galápagos sharks
Activities: Snorkeling and Naturalist Walk

Today is the day to explore Los Tuneles, a fabulous place considered the best snorkeling spot in the entire Galápagos. In the morning, you have a 45-minute speedboat ride from Puerto Vilamil. En route, you visit Roca Unión where you can snorkel amidst clouds of brightly colored fish, and watch sea lions and boobies from the surface.

Once inside the Los Tuneles inlets, you will discover crystal clear and calm pools for snorkeling. Since this site is not visited by any cruises, it is likely to be vacant of other people. You spend the morning snorkeling through bizarre rock formations, created by hot magma cooling in the sea. You are likely to spot penguins, green sea turtles, blue-footed boobies, rays, tropical fish, white-tipped reef sharks and sea lions. After lunch, your guide will lead you on a naturalist walk to observe the wildlife from the lovely beaches. If there’s enough time, more snorkeling can even be done before you head back to town.

If there is time in the afternoon, there may be time to snorkel in a little visited spot just outside of town. From Puerto Villamil, you will have a short walk to the edge of town and then over a wooden walkway that runs through a mangrove forest up to an intertidal pond. In the calm turquoise bay, you have the chance to snorkel amongst sea turtles, penguins, sea lions, many tropical fish and rays. Concha de Perla is isolated from the ocean at low tide, making it an interesting and calm place for snorkeling and swimming. You may be snorkeling alongside some Isabela locals who also frequent this spot, but you’re unlikely to share the spot with too many tourists.

You return to Puerto Villamil after this tour.